Discovering Trilussa Tavern

Our interview with Maurizio Pirola, soul of the historic Roman restaurant along with his brother Massimo

Trilussa is one of Rome’s historic restaurants. How did it begin?

It was opened in 1910 as Taverna degli Amici. In 1950, when Carlo Alberto Salustri, aka Trilussa, poet and writer, a great friend of my grandfather, died, the name was changed in his honour.

The most valuable lesson your father passed on to you?

“Quality is the only investment that never fails.” And this is what we do, from meat, such as pork cheek, which we also serve cured, to tomato puree, which we get from a small company in Alba. Only the best ingredients.

How important is seasonality for you?

It’s fundamental. While still featuring the cornerstones of Roman cuisine - carbonara, gricia, amatriciana, roast lamb, oxtail stew, tripe, etc. - the menu changes with the seasons, and also includes non-local recipes, especially appreciated by the Romans, who like to make traditional dishes at home. This autumn we offer some truly special fettuccine alla norcina.

What are your cult dishes?

I would say amatriciana with fresh cherry tomatoes, and Mimosa ravioli, one of our secret recipes that is very popular.

Many celebrities have dined at your restaurant. Can you name some for us?

Sylvester Stallone and Cuba Gooding Jr. recently came. Roger Federer, Laura Pausini and Alessandro Roja are now friends, and Spike Lee and Zucchero also visit us quite often.

The restaurant is a cornerstone of Trastevere. How has the neighbourhood changed over time?

It has been transformed. The name comes from trans Tiberim, beyond the Tiber, where unsavoury characters were sent. This until the 70s, then, with the opening of John Cabot University, the area was repopulated and upgraded, becoming the lively neighbourhood that everyone knows today.