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Felice a Testaccio

text Martina Olivieri
photo Dario Garofalo

May 19, 2025

The best trattorias in Rome

From cacio e pepe to coda alla vaccinara: the essence of Roman cuisine in nine stages

Rome isn’t just a city to admire – it’s a city to devour. Every neighbourhood hides its own culinary gems, every trattoria tells a tale, and every dish is a deep dive into centuries of popular tradition. If you’re looking for an authentic Roman lunch - full of honest flavors and heartfelt hospitality - you’re in the right place. We’ve selected nine restaurants that truly embody the soul of the Eternal City: an itinerary of forkfuls of history, time-honored recipes, and kitchens that smell like home.

It’s a journey through bold, no-frills flavors, rich in character and bursting with soul. A word of advice: whenever possible, make a reservation in advance. Rome is a city that loves good food, and these spots are among the most beloved -and sought-after - by local food lovers and visitors alike. If you want to find out where to eat the best cacio e pepe, click here!

Buon appetito!

Felice a Testaccio

An institution in the heart of Testaccio, the neighbourhood that epitomises Roman spirit. At Felice, the iconic cacio e pepe is tossed at your table – a performance as delightful as the dish itself. The setting is refined without being stuffy, and the menu is a love letter to traditional flavours, with premium ingredients taking centre stage. (Via Mastro Giorgio, 29)

Felice a Testaccio

Roscioli

More than just a restaurant, Roscioli is a Roman icon. Part deli, part wine bar, part fine-dining destination, it serves elevated Roman classics that remain fiercely loyal to tradition. The amatriciana here is made with crispy guanciale and hand-picked tomatoes, while the carbonara is one of the most celebrated in town. Ideal for those who seek the best, without compromise. (Via dei Giubbonari, 21)

Roscioli

Trattoria Da Danilo

Tucked away in the Esquilino district, Da Danilo is synonymous with the perfect carbonara: creamy, savoury, and perfectly balanced. But there’s more to explore – from slow-cooked oxtail stew to tender saltimbocca and irresistible homemade desserts. The atmosphere is unpretentious and cosy, with just the right dash of Roman flair. (Via Petrarca, 13)

Trattoria Da Danilo

Sora Lella

Founded by the legendary Elena Fabrizi, Sora Lella continues to thrive under the loving guidance of her family. Perched on the Tiber Island with a charming view, it serves genuine Roman fare with painstaking attention to detail. The menu is a tribute to familial heritage, and every dish has a story to tell. (Via di Ponte Quattro Capi, 15/16)

Sora Lella

Armando al Pantheon

A stone’s throw from the Pantheon, Armando is one of the city centre’s timeless trattorias that has defied the passing of time. Come here for authentic staples such as gricia, roast lamb, or rigatoni with pajata, served in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Run by the Gargioli family since 1961, it’s the very definition of Roman hospitality. (Salite de’ Crescenzi, 31)

Armando al Pantheon

Checco Er Carettiere

In the heart of Trastevere, Checco Er Carettiere oozes unfiltered Roman character. From oxtail stew to carciofi alla giudia, the menu is a journey through bold Roman flavours, with the added bonus of fresh seafood sourced daily from trusted suppliers. A favourite among true-blue Romans and film personalities alike, it retains a timeless, working-class charm that sets it apart.(Via Benedetta, 10)

Checco er carrettiere

Hosteria Grappolo d’Oro

Just steps from one of Rome’s most iconic squares, this hosteria offers straightforward Roman cuisine with the occasional refined touch. The menu changes with the seasons, but classic dishes like tripe, bucatini all’amatriciana, and puntarelle with anchovies are always on hand. Perfect for a leisurely lunch steeped in history and flavour. (Piazza della Cancelleria, 80)

Hosteria Grappolo d’Oro

Da Roberto e Loretta

In the San Giovanni neighbourhood, this family-run trattoria is a hidden gem. Roberto e Loretta reinterpret Roman classics with respect and a dash of creative flair. Don’t miss the tonnarelliall’amatriciana or the slow-cooked beef stew with potatoes. The service is warm, and the setting simple yet charming, with floral details and tasteful decor. (Via Saturnia, 18/24)

Da Roberto e Loretta

Flavio al Velavevodetto

Flavio De Maio has turned his trattoria into a must-visit for those craving unapologetically Roman fare. Nestled beneath the Monte dei Cocci in the heart of Testaccio, this spot serves all the timeless greats – from carbonara to tiramisu, not forgetting the unforgettable meatloaf. Informal setting, hearty food, and honest flavours: this is Rome at its most deliciously authentic. (Via di Monte Testaccio, 97/98)

Flavio al Velavevodetto

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